Trip Reports

Tanzania Trip Report 2003 Tanzania Trip Report February 2005 Tanzania Trip Report September 2005

Kenya Trip Report

Uganda Trip Report

TANZANIA BIRDING TRIP REPORT
Tanzania 2003
By Mark Sutton

The team

Mark, Linda and Brent Sutton, John and Janette Martin, Pete Antrobus (AKA Tripod), Debbie Hough.

Introduction

Our initial plans were to spend the first half of the holiday in Kenya, with the second half in Northern Tanzania, but due to terrorist threats the UK Government were advising against travel to Kenya. As a result we could not get insurance cover for Kenya, this combined with our personal safety concerns meant we changed our plans to a purely Tanzanian trip at quite short notice. Fortunately the airline, Emirates, allowed us to change our flights, the down side being that we had to book new tickets through Emirates and wait for ten weeks to get a refund on the original Kenyan flights. Quite an expensive option, in the short term.

All the accommodation and transport, including the internal flights, were arranged through Anthony Raphael of Birding and Beyond Safaris, who I had used on my trip to Kenya two years previously. I would certainly recommend Anthony from Birding and Beyond Safaris to anybody considering a trip to E. Africa. Further details can be found on the website: www.tanzaniabirding.com or e-mail tours@tanzaniabirding.com

Transport

We used a 4x4 Safari Minibus, with driver, throughout our time in mainland Tanzania. A safari minibus, with its roof, which can be raised, is ideal for game viewing, birding and photography in the game parks. Our driver Arnold was very knowledgeable about the sites visited, with a good knowledge of the mammals, but not birds. He was extremely good company and looked after us very well. On Pemba Island the Manta Reef Lodge provided a vehicle and driver.

Health

No major health problems were encountered other than a 24-hour stomach upset which I had. We all took Anti-malarial precautions either in the form of Larium, Doxycycline or Malarone

Food

Food was of a good standard, with packed lunches being provided by the hotels / lodges on a number of occasions. In addition Arnold usually came equipped with a flask of hot water, tea & coffee.

Weather

Generally dry throughout except for heavy thunderstorm overnight in the Serengeti.

Books & Tapes

Trip reports: We obtained some information from trip reports found on the Internet, but with the exception of the Serengeti / Ngorongoro area could found very little information on the areas we visited.

Field Guides:Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa - Terry Stephenson & John Fanshawe, published by T& A D Poyser. The format of having the text and range map opposite the illustration is very useful. but some of the illustrations were not up to the standard you would expect from a modern field guide, as they did not capture the true appearance of the bird.

Birds of Kenya & Northern Tanzania - Zimmerman, Turner and Pearson published by Helm. A very good guide, I found the text far more informative than the Poyser guide, in addition the maps were more detailed. On the down side it only covered Northern Tanzania.

The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals (Poyser)- very good.

Other Guides:Where to watch birds in Africa - Nigel Wheatley, published by Helm - Invaluable.

Lonely Planet, Tanzania- As usual an essential companion to any trip.

Road Map to East Africa - purchased on previous trip to Kenya

Sound guides: African bird sounds volume 2, an 11 CD set, with target species transferred to tape. This useful CD does not cover E. Africa, so many of the most sought after species are not covered. A CD covering E. African is apparently due to be published in 2004.

Accommodation

11th & 31st Beachcomber Resort.Situated on the Indian Ocean, a couple of hours drive from the airport. A good standard of accommodation, with swimming pool makes it an ideal place to chill out at the beginning / end of a trip. Listed in the Lonely Planet guide, under the Northern Beaches section.

12th Manta Reef Lodge.Situated in a beautiful beachside location in the North of Pemba, only a short drive from the Ngezi Forest. The lodge provided transport to & from the airport, as well as a vehicle and driver during our stay. Listed in the LP guide under Kigomasha Peninsula.

13thA basic hotel in the town of Morogoro, the name of which was not noted.

14th Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel.A pleasant, but basic hotel situated about 500m south from the HQ of the Udzungwa Mountains NP. Listed in the LP guide under Udzungwa Mountains NP.

15th & 16th Mkumi Genesis Motel.A basic but adequate motel , situated in the outskirts of Mikumi town. Listed in ther LP guide under Mikumi.

17th & 18th Amani Conservation Centre Rest House.Situated in the East Uasmbara Mountains at the Amani Nature Reserve, basic but excellent accommodation, but probably only accessible with a 4WD. Listed in the LP guide under Amani NR.

19th & 20th Muller's Mountain Lodge.Situated in the West Uasmbara Mountains near the town of Lushoto. Superb accommodation & food - highly recommended. Listed in the LP guide under Lushoto.

21st Elephant MotelSituated 1km SE of the town of Same. A modern, but basic Motel, listed in the LP guide under South Pare Mountains.

22nd Maasai Safari Centre.This Lodge is located a little outside the regularly crowded large tourist Hotels in the middle of the busy Arusha town. It has an excellent garden and comes highly recommended, but regrettably it is not listed in the LP guide & I don't have any contact details.

23rd Tarangire Porini Camp (tented camp).Situated in dry bush, just outside the northern perimiter of the NP. The highlight here was the drinking pool, which attracted large numbers of birds which could be watched and photoghaphed from the comfort of the restaurant. Listed in the LP guide under Tarangire NP.

24th Tarangire Tented Safari Lodge.This luxury tented camp, compete with swimming pool is situated within the grounds of the Tarangire NP. Listed in the LP guide under Tarangire NP.

25th & 26th Serengeti Sopa Lodge.This up-market lodge, complete with pool, is situated in the centre of the Serengeti NP. Listed in the LP guide under Serengeti NP.

26th & 28th Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.This up-market lodge, complete with pool, is situated on the eastern rim of the crater, close to one of the access roads to/ from the crater bottom. Listed in the LP guide under Ngorongoro Crater.

29th Migunga Forest Camp.The fairly basic, but adequate, tented camp is set on 35 acres of yellow acacia forest in a secluded part of Migungani Village and on the boundary to the Lake Manyara NP. The camp consists of nine self-contained tents with Bathrooms having running hot and cold water, showers, and flush toilets. There is a dining room and bar under thatch. Electricity is 12 volt supplied by solar power. Listed in the LP guide under Mto Wa Mbu. swala@swalasafaris.com

Sites visited

We relied heavily on the local knowledge of Arnold, our diver, at most sites; as a result exact locations for some of the sites are not know.

Pemba Island: All birding was done either from the grounds of the Manta Reef Lodge, or in and around the nearby Ngezi Forest. You should obtain a permit to bird the forest, from the office at the start of the track which runs through the middle of the forest, and which eventually leads to the Lodge. Not covered in Wheatley

Kilombero River and Flood Plains:The town of Ifakara lies on the edge of the floodplain. Bird the road, which leads south from the town, down to the ferry across the river. Covered in Wheatley.

Udzungwa Mountain Forest National park:The park HQ, where you have to arrange a guide, lies about 500 M north of the Udzungwa Mountain View Lodge. You can bird this area, but it is apparently better habitat on the waterfall trail, about 10 km further north, which is where we spent the morning. Covered in Wheatley.

Miombo woodlands, Mikumi:The dirt road running north from Mikumi to Ulaya cuts through some excellent miombo woodland. We birded this road a couple of kms north of the town & also a side road off to the west (Pipeline Road). An advantage with this area over the NP is that you can bird on foot. Not covered in Wheatley

Mikumi NP:The main road from Dar es Salam to Mikumi cuts through the NP, and quite good birding can be had along this road itself, although other traffic can be a problem. The park lies on the eastern edge of Mikumi, with the main entrance lying about 15km from the town. Tsetse flies were a nuisance in part of the park, although they do not apparently carry sleeping sickness. Covered in Wheatley.

Amani NR:This reserve is situated in the East Usambara Mountains and is a mosaic of small patches of woodland and cultivation. The majority of our birding was done within walking distance of the Rest House, either along local roads or on the trail to a viewpoint, which leads from the Rest House itself. A 4WD is required to reach the reserve. Mentioned in Wheatley

Sawmill Track, West Usambaras: I do not know the location of this site other than it was about 45 minutes drive from Muller's Mountain Lodge. We walked the track for about 1km as it ran through a narrow section of remnant woodland. Not covered in Wheatley

Track through Remnant Forest near Muller's Mountain Lodge:This track was about a 10-minute drive from the Lodge and ran through a small section of degraded woodland. Again we relied on Arnold's local knowledge. Not covered in Wheatley

Taveta Golden Weaver Site:This site is situated along the main road to the town of Same, where a reed fringed river, boarded by rice fields, transects the road. Not covered in Wheatley

South Pare Mountains:We birded the patched of dry scrub on the hillsides to the north east of the town of Same. Access was along a dirt track off the main road near the Elephant Motel. I suspect that any area of scrub in this area will produce similar birds, as we did not manage to see the target White-eye, only Abyssinian. We suspect it is located, higher up in the forested mountains. Not covered in Wheatley

Tarangire:We birded two areas 1) The Tarangire Porini Camp, which is situated on the Northern edge of the NP. You can bird on foot here as long as you are accompanied by a guide from the camp. 2) Tarangire NP, as with most NP's, most birding is from the vehicle. The only areas you can bird on foot are in the picnic sites and around the Lodge. Covered in Wheatley.

Olduvai Gorge: This site lies in the northern section of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and is only a short detour from the journey to the Serengeti. We only birded around the museum & the picnic site, which, as usual, attracted many birds.

Serengeti:The majority of the birding is from the vehicle, although the picnic sites at Seronera and at the Naabi Hill Gate exit for the park were very birdy. Covered in Wheatley.

Ngorongoro Crater:As above, the majority of the birding was carried out from the vehicle, except for at a couple of picnic sites. We did a full day in the crater & covered most of the area including the soda lake, and a couple of other lakes & marshes. We also birded around the grounds of the Hotel. Covered in Wheatley.

Lake Manyara:From the vehicle we birded the woodland around the edge of the lake, as well as an accessible section of the lakeshore. We also birded on foot, around the Migunga Forest Camp, on the edge of the reserve. Covered in Wheatley.

Itinerary

11th August

We arrived in Tanzania at dusk, 30 hours late due to a delayed departure in Manchester. This delay caused us to miss our connection in Dubai by half an hour. We then had to endure a 30-hour wait in Dubai, albeit in a very comfortable hotel, before the next available flight to Dar es Salaam. Arnold, who would be our driver for the duration of our holiday in mainland Tanzania, met us at the airport. We drove to the Beach Comber Resort where we arrived well after dark, but luckily the hotel obliged in making a late meal for us all, before we crashed out. It had been our intention to fly to Pemba Island today, but had missed the flight. Luckily Anthony had managed to postpone our flight by a day, which resulted in us only having one night on the island instead of two. This meant we had a rather rushed start to the holiday & missed out on a days chilling out on Pemba.

12th August

Managed to get 15 minutes birding from the beach at dawn, before the 6:30am breakfast and transfer to the Airport for the scheduled flight to Pemba. The flight departed at 8:35am and flew via Zanzibar, arriving on Pemba at 10:10. On arrival at Chake Chake Airport in Pemba, we were met by staff from the Manta Reef Lodge, who transferred us to the hotel, which took about two and a half hours. After Lunch and a couple of hours birding around the grounds, a member of the hotel staff drove us to the nearby Ngezi Forest, where we birded until late in the afternoon and then birded the forest edge until dusk. We returned to the Hotel for an evening meal after which we went back into the field in search of the Scops owl.

Highlights. Hotel grounds: Pemba White-eye, Pemba Sunbird & Madagascar Bee-eater.

Ngezi Forest area:Mangrove Kingfisher, Ethiopian Swallow & Pemba Scops-owl.

August 13th

The morning was spent birding the forest edge in search of the Green Pigeon, our last remaining Pemba endemic. After Lunch we caught an afternoon flight back to Dar Es Salaam, again via Zanzibar. We originally intended to try and drive as far as Mikumi , but as it was getting late we decided to stay over in Morogoro and continue to Mikumi in the morning.

Highlights. Ngezi Forest area: Pemba Green-pigeon & Dickinson's Kestrel.

14th August

We made an early start, passing through Mikumi NP, which gave us our first taste of Tanzanian National Parks, before stopping at the Mikumi Genesis Motel for breakfast. After breakfast we drove through the Udzungwa Mountains, stopping at Udzungwa Mountain View Lodge to unpack before carrying on to the Kilombero Flood Plains where three Tanzanian endemics occur, two of which are, as yet un-named cisticolas. We birded the floodplains and river until late afternoon before returning to the Udzungwa Mountain View Lodge after dark.

Highlights. Floodplain and River: White-crowned Plover, African Skimmer, Coppery-tailed Coucal, Kilombero Weaver, White-tailed Cisticola and Kilombero Cisticola.

Journey back to the Lodge, at dusk: Usambara Eagle-owl & Square-tailed Nightjar

15th August

We rose at dawn & drove a short distance to the HQ of the Udzungwa Mountain Forest National park, where we met up with one of the rangers. After coffee and much debate about whether to bird around the HQ or the waterfall trail, we finally opted for the waterfall trail which was about a 10 Km drive away. After a fairly quiet mornings birding we returned to the Lodge for lunch. We failed to see any of the local specialties, which in reality require a lot more time and effort.

After lunch we drove to Mikumi, where we checked into the Genesis Motel.

In the afternoon we birded the Miombo woodlands North West of Mikumi this is a good area for a number of southern specialties, with the advantage of being able to bird on foot, which is not possible in the adjoining reserve. It would appear that none of the Tanzanian parks are fenced in, which means that the animals are free to roam where they like. As a result Elephant & Buffalo can be encountered, so care must be taken.

Highlights. Udzungwa Mountains: Green headed Oriole, Red-capped Robin-chat & Yellowbill.

Mikumi: White breasted Cuckooshrike, Greencap Eremomela, Southern Blue-eared Glossy-starling & Pale Batis.

16th August

The morning was again spent birding the miombo woodland, before returning to the lodge mid morning. We spent the rest of the day in the Mikumi National Park, where we had lunch at the hotel near the entrance gate. We finally left the park after dark; which is apparently not allowed and resulted in Arnold being reprimanded by the guards on leaving the reserve. The night was spent at Mikumi Genesis Motel.

Highlights. Miombo woodland: Böhm's Spinetail, Racket-tailed Roller, White-headed Black-chat, Tiny Cisticola, Miombo Wren-warbler, Rufous-bellied Tit, African Penduline-tit and Orange-winged Pytilia.

Mikumi National Park: Red necked Spurfowl Black bellied Bustard, Croaking Cisticola Northern Pied-babbler.

17th August

After an early breakfast, we set out for one of the longest drives on our trip. On the approach to the Eastern Arc Mountains we made several stops in the cultivated areas for Zanzibar Bishop, but only managed to find, good numbers of Black-winged Bishops. We arrived at the Amani nature reserve rest House shortly after dark.

18th August

The whole day was spent birding the Amani area with a short and uneventful visit to an area of riverine woodland & tea plantations in the afternoon. In the morning we birded the main track above the accommodation and after breakfast the patches of woodland and cultivated areas around the village. The late afternoon & evening was spent on the trail leading from the center.

Highlights:Fischer's Turaco, Green Barbet, White-starred Robin, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Forest Batis, Usambara Hyliota, Yellow White-eye, Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird, Banded Green Sunbird and Kenrick's Starling.

19th August

The morning was spent birding the trail leading from the center, to the viewpoint before returning for lunch, where I met up with John & Pete who had both managed to independently see Long-billed Tailorbird in a small gully besides the road, just above the center. A brief search of the area failed to provide the desired grip-back.

After lunch we set off for Muller's Mountain Lodge, an old German colonial house, in the West Usambara Mountains. The journey took the rest of the afternoon, except for a short stop in the West Usambara foothills, so we arrived at the lodge at dusk. We were just making ourselves comfortable in front of the log fire, when John came in with the news that a Nightjar was calling from a tree in the garden. We dashed out to enjoy excellent views of Usambara Nightjar, which was soon joined in the next tree by a medium sized Eagle-owl, which proved to be Usamabra Eagle-owl. A pretty good introduction to the West Usambaras!

Today was Linda's 40th birthday, so Muller's Mountain Lodge, which is renowned for its fine cuisine, was the ideal place to celebrate the occasion.

Highlights. Amani: Crowned Eagle, Orange Ground-thrush & Amani Sunbird.

W. Usambara foothills: Nyzana Swift, Cliff Chat & Hunters Sunbird.

Muller's Mountain Lodge: Usambara Nightjar & Usamabra Eagle-owl.

20th August

After an early breakfast we birded the sawmill track, about a half hour drive from the lodge, before returning for lunch. The early afternoon was spent birding around the lodge, before heading off to a nearby area of remnant forest. The night was again spent at the Lodge.

Highlights. Sawmill track: Tiny Greenbul, Fulleborns Black Boubou, Abyssinian Hill-babbler, African Tailorbird & Red-faced Crimsonwing.

Remnant Forest: Hartlaub's Turaco, Moustached Tinkerbird & Waller's Starling.

21st August

The morning was again spent at the nearby remnant forest before departing mid morning with a packed lunch. We stopped for a short lunch break in the foothills before descending back onto the plain and the journey to Same, where we would spend the night. Arnold knew of a reliable site for Taveta Golden Weaver on this section where a reed fringed river, boarded by rice fields, transects the road. Shortly after entering the fields a large raptor flew towards us obligingly hovered overhead, giving excellent views. We all concluded that it was a Short-toed Eagle, a potential First for Tanzania! After an hours searching, I managed to locate a male weaver, which promptly disappeared before the others arrived & could not be relocated. A few Kms further down the road we stropped to bird an area of thorn scrub & fields, were Linda managed to locate another male amongst a mixer weaver flock.

The night was spent at the Elephant Motel on the outskirts of Same.

Highlights. Remnant Forest: Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater & Cabanis's Greenbul.

Journey to Same: Short-toed Eagle, Pink-breasted Lark, White-browed Scrub-robin, Red-fronted Warbler, Pygmy Batis, Black-bellied Sunbird, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Rosy-patched Shrike, Fischer's Starling &Taveta Golden Weaver.

22nd August

After Breakfast, we birded an area of dry bush, in the foothills of the South Pare Mountains only a short journey from the Hotel. Our main target here was South Pare White-eye, a potential split from Broad-ringed White-eye. After about half an hour John managed to locate a party of White-eyes, which we are convinced were Abyssinian, although Anthony later insisted South Pare is the only White-eye in the area. The altitude (c1,00m) was lower & the habitat much drier than we expected South-pare White eye to occur in. We birded a couple of locations in the area until returning to the Motel for lunch.

After lunch we drove to Arusha & booked into Maasai Safari Tourist Lodge. The Lodge is located a little outside the center of town and away from the crowded tourist hotels and is set within a very pleasant garden. The afternoon was spent chilling out & birding in the hotel grounds, where we met up with Anthony, who brought with him John & Jeanette's long lost suitcase.

Highlights. South Pare: Brown Snake-eagle, D'Arnoud's and White-headed barbets, Northern Brownbul, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, Tiny Cisticola, Grey Wren-warbler Black-headed Batis, Sulphur-breasted and Grey-headed bush-shrikes, & Green-winged Pytilia.

Hotel: Brown-breasted Barbet, Tropical Boubou.

23rd August

Most of the night was spent dashing to the toilet, presumably from something I ate or drank, as a result I started the day feeling pretty rotten and not really up to walking over sun scorched plains looking for a Lark. Luckily no one else had contracted my stomach upset, so I relied on the rest of the guys putting in all the effort as I tagged on behind. After about an hour of walking over the plains, situated to the North of Arusha, a pair of Spike-heeled Larks were located. This isolated population, a potential split, is only found in this area of Tanzania. We continued a few kms further along the road until we reached a patch of acacias, which were birded for a further half an hour before returning to Arusha and dropping Anthony off at his office.

In the afternoon we drove to Tarangire Porini Camp, a tented camp, which is set in 200 acres of un spoilt wilderness on the border of the Tarangire National Park The dining area overlooks a small drinking trough, which was alive with birds coming into drink. The rest of the guys went birding, on foot, with a local guide, whilst I stayed behind to watch the drinking pool, as I was still feeling pretty rough.

Highlights. Roadside birds traveling to/from the plains: Lammergeier, Red-and-Yellow Barbet, White-fronted Bee-eater, Capped and Schalow's Wheatears.

Open Plains: Spike-heeled Lark, Eastern Chanting Goshawk and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse

Acacia: Fawn-coloured Lark and Banded Parisoma

Porini Camp: Chestnut and Swahili sparrows, Chestnut Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, Blue-capped cordon-bleu, Crimson-rumped Waxbill, Grey-headed Silverbill, Red-bellied Parrot, Yellow-collared Lovebird, Bare-faced Go-away-bird & Dark Chanting Goshawk.

24th August

The early part of the morning was spent overlooking the drinking trough, which was again alive with activity. After a leisurely breakfast, we departed for Tarangire National park, a short drive a way. En route to Tarangire NP we stopped at a couple of roadside pools, which were teemed with Chestnut-backed sparrow-larks. Upon reaching the park we headed to a picnic site where you could leave the vehicle and ate our packed lunch. After a couple of hours, we made our way to the Luxury Tented Camp where we chilled out in the pool. The late afternoon & evening were spent on a game drive in the vicinity of the camp.

Highlights: Porini Camp: Jameson's Firefinch, Black-faced Waxbill, Straw-tailed Whydah, Gabar Goshawk, Pygmy Falcon & Von Der Decken's Hornbill

Tarangire NP: Secretary-bird, Martial Eagle, Coqui and Crested francolins, Yellow-necked and Red-necked spurfowls, White-bellied Bustard, Yellow-throated Sand grouse, Ashy starling, White-headed Buffalo-weaver, and a single Rufous-tailed Weaver at dusk.

25th August

After an early breakfast, we checked out of the Tarangire Safari Lodge and began the long drive to the Serengeti. We started the journey on good roads, which changed to a rutted dirt road as we climbed the rift valley escarpment just past lake Manyara. We drove around the mainly forested Ngorongoro crater, where we made a brief stop in a area rich in wild flowers & Sunbirds. We continued on the Olduvai Gorge where we stopped to eat our packed lunch. This area is worth visiting, not only for the museum dedicated to the finding of mans earliest remains, but also for the birds, which feed at your feet around the picnic tables.

After lunch we continued, entering the vast expanse of the Serengeti plains. As soon as we turned off the main track and started to head towards our hotel, we came across a female Lion suckling three small cubs, which gave very close views. Within minutes of leaving her we encountered a female cheetah and three well-grown cubs at a fresh kill, shortly followed by a large male Lion, which soon got scent of the kill and chased off the Cheetah family, scattering the cubs in all directions. A pretty impressive introduction to the Serengeti!

We arrived at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge at dusk, where the hot showers & luxurious rooms were most appreciated after a long drive.

Highlights: Dusky Turtle Dove, Malachite and Golden-winged sunbirds, White-bellied Canary, Greater Kestrel, Kori, White-bellied and Hartlaub's bustards, Two-banded Courser & Rufous-tailed Weaver.

26th August

After breakfast we heded out for a full day in the Serengeti. Arnold drove slowly through an area of Acacia woodland, which lies along the main track near the hotel. We stopping to check any bird flock's we encountered, before picking up a Grey-breasted Spurfowl, the last endemic of the trip near one of the river crossings. We continued onto a nearby lake before heading out onto the grassy plains and a picnic site near Seronera, where we ate our packed lunch. The picnic site was alive with birds feeding on scrap, including our only Usambiro Barbets of the trip. Drove back to the hotel to pick up the girls who had spent the morning chilling out & enjoying the delights of the hotel swimming pool. We left the hotel at 4pm and headed back towards the lake, where luckily for the girls a Leopard we had seen in the morning, was still in its tree. The drive back to the Hotel was delayed by a large herd of elephants, crossing the road, which were not very impressed by out presence. We drove past a spectacular fire on one of the hillsides, which had been caused by thunderstorms we had seen distantly earlier in the afternoon.

In the evening we were treated to an impressive thunderstorm around the hotel whilst eating dinner. Back at the room the views from the balcony, across a lightening lit Serengeti, will leave a lasting memory.

Highlights. Acacia Woodland & riverine scrub: Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Meyer's Parrot, Fischer's Lovebird, Sharpe's Pied-babbler, Buff-bellied Penduline-Tit, Red-throated Tit and Abyssinian Scimitar-bill & Yellow-throated Petronia.

Open plains: Black-winged Lapwing, Temminck's and Two-banded coursers.

Picnic Site: Usambiro Barbet, Grey-capped Social-weaver.

Scattered trees near the picnic site: Silverbird.

27th August

We packed & left the hotel, starting to retrace ours steps back to the Ngorongoro crater where we would spend the next two nights. The tracks across the plains proved hard going after the overnight rains & Arnold had to be quite selective about which tracks to use, as some were almost impassable. We stopped for lunch at Naabi Hill Gate exit for the park, where we were again treated to close views of the many birds which came down to scraps of food.

We arrived at the hotel Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge at 18.30, where we managed a last hours birding around the grounds before dark. After taking a shower, a Mountain Nightjar could be heard from the room, but it could not be located. When we met up with John for Dinner, he gripped me off with the news that he had seen the nightjar outside his room!

Highlights. Naabi Hill Gate : Buff-bellied Warbler, Banded Parisoma Hildebrand's Starling & Rufous-tailed Weaver.

Sopa Lodge: Verreaux's Eagle-owl & White-eyed Slaty-flycatcher.

28th August

First light found us exploring the grounds of the hotel, before taking an early breakfast & departing for a full day in the crater.

We covered a large part of the crater bottom, taking lunch at a lakeside picnic site, before ending up at the soda lake late afternoon from where we headed back to the hotel.

The memorable day finished back at the hotel, with a pair of Montane Nightjars performing under a spotlight near the swimming pool.

Highlights. Sopa Lodge: Grey-capped Warbler, Broad-ringed White-eye & Montane Nightjars

Crater: Rosy-throated Longclaw, Grey-rumped Swallow, African Marsh-Harrier, Lesser Flamingo, Banded Martin, Grey Crowned-Crane, Hildebrand's Francolin, Yellow Bishop & Chestnut-banded Plover.

29th August

The early morning was spent birding around the grounds of the hotel including the nearby staff quarters and football pitch, before heading off on the journey to Lake Manyara. On arrival at Lake Manyara we ate our packed lunch at the picnic site by the entrance gate, after which we entered the park, spending the rest of the day on a game drive with a visit to the lakeshore.

In the evening we drove the short distance to the Migunga Forest Camp, which is set in 35 acres of yellow acacia forest in a secluded part of Migungani Village. The camp consists of nine self-contained tents with Bathrooms having running hot and cold water, showers, and flush toilets. There is a dining room and bar under thatch. Electricity is 12 volt supplied by solar power.

Highlights. Sopa Lodge: Hunter's Cisticola, Cinnamon Bracken-warbler, Red-collared Widowbird & Tacazze Sunbird.

Lake Manyara: Giant Kingfisher, Black Cuchooshrike & White Helmetshrike.

30th August

We spent a couple of hours birding the acacia woodland and the nearby grassland before heading back to camp for an early lunch.

After lunch we drove to Arusha airport where, after saying our goodbyes to Arnold and Anthony, who had driven out to meet us, we departed on the 13.00 flight to Dar Es Salaam, via Zanzibar. We were collected from the airport by a taxi arranged by the Beachcomber Hotel. The hotel had been taken over by a wedding reception and the hotel wanted us to eat at a nearby hotel, but after much insistence we were fed on the balcony of the hotel overlooking the reception party and the Indian Ocean.

Highlights. Migunga Forest Camp: Klaas's Cuckoo &. African Golden Oriole.

31st August

Spent the morning birding the mangroves & beach around the hotel, as well as chilling out in the pool.

Transferred to the airport for the afternoon flight that left on time and arrived in Dubai late evening. Onward flight early the next morning arrived in Manchester early afternoon of 1 September.

Highlights. Beachcomber Hotel: Dimorphic Egret

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TANZANIA BIRDING TRIP REPORT
Tanzania February 12 - 26th 2005
By Keith Riding

Saturday, February 12th, 2005.
We had travelled from Uganda to Dar es Salaam and booked into a hotel the previous day, that Anthony had arranged for us. Anthony met us whilst we were eating breakfast. I had been out at dawn and returned to pick up Mog for breakfast at 0700 hrs. We quickly checked out and met Gaitan, our driver. We drove out of Dar, chatting earnestly. We didn’t really see much until we reached Mikumi National Park. Gaitan drove slowly though the park. We saw some interesting birds, but we weren’t allowed out of the bus. Yes, it was a small bus that we had all to ourselves. We stopped for lunch at the Mikumi Genesis Hotel. Anthony and Gaitan ate elsewhere. After lunch, we drove out of the park and at the town of Mikumi; we turned right up a dirt track into a Miombo forest, which was lovely. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed out of the bus here either as the army was around, but we saw some nice birds anyway. We carried on to Udzungwa National forest for about an hour, arriving at a very basic hotel, the Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel, in the middle of the forest, where we had a wonderful cooked supper of Impala, with soup for starters and crepes for dessert. There was even an air-conditioner in the room if we wanted it.

N.B.I entered the bird sightings into the software program “BirdBase” and the output is in this format. The ones in red are ‘lifers’ and the comments are in blue, just to make it easier to read.

Dar es Salaam; Sea Cliff Hotel at dawn.
Trip Date: 12-2-05
Species Seen: 7

House Crow House Sparrow Somali Bunting F Brown-breasted Barbet White-browed Coucal Yellow Bishop Red-collared Widowbird

Corvus splendens Passer domesticus Emberiza poliopleura Lybius melanopterus Centropus superciliosus Euplectes capensis Euplectes ardens

Morogoro to Mikumi National Park;
Trip Date: 12-2-05
Species Seen: 28

African Palm-Swift Barn Swallow Sacred Ibis Black Kite White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Blue-breasted Cordonbleu

Cypsiurus parvus Hirundo rustica Threskiornis aethiopicus Milvus migrans Plocepasser mahali Uraeginthus angolensis

Several were seen throughout the day.

Helmeted Guineafowl Spotted Flycatcher Lilac-breasted Roller Rattling Cisticola Tawny-flanked Prinia F Pale-billed Hornbill

Numida meleagris Muscicapa striata Coracias caudata Cisticola chiniana Prinia subflava Tockus pallidirostris

About a dozen birds were seen throughout the day.

European Roller F Zanzibar Bishop

Coracias garrulus Euplectes nigroventris

Several males and females were seen washing themselves in a pond.

F Bertram's Weaver

Ploceus bertrandi

Several males and females were seen washing in a pond.

Long-tailed Fiscal Fan-tailed Widowbird Red-faced Cisticola

Lanius cabanisi Euplectes axillaris Cisticola erythrops

Anthony recognized the song and we saw one fly up from the grass into a tree.

White-backed Vulture Brown-crowned Tchagra Spotted Morning-Thrush

Gyps africanus Tchagra australis Cichladusa guttata

Anthony heard these

Southern Ground-Hornbill Striped Kingfisher

Bucorvus leadbeateri Halcyon chelicuti

A couple were seen.

European Bee-eater Marabou Stork Yellow-billed Oxpecker Common Bulbul House Sparrow

Merops apiaster Leptoptilos crumeniferus Buphagus africanus Pycnonotus barbatus Passer domesticus

Near Udzungwa just after Mikumi; A Miombo Forest.
Trip Date: 12-2-05
Species Seen: 11

Red-eyed Dove European Bee-eater Fan-tailed Widowbird Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Retz's Helmetshrike

Streptopelia semitorquata Merops apiaster Euplectes axillaris Turtur chalcospilos Prionops retzii

Several were seen foraging in a tall tree.

Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird

Pogoniulus bilineatus

One was heard.

White-headed Black-Chat

Myrmecocichla arnotti

Two pairs were seen.

Fork-tailed Drongo Black-crowned Tchagra

Dicrurus adsimilis Tchagra senegala

We saw the Brown-crowned Tchagra earlier.

Yellow Bishop African Pied Wagtail

Euplectes capensis Motacilla aguimp

En route to Udzungwa; from Mikumi.
Trip Date: 12-2-05
Species Seen: 5

Brown-hooded Kingfisher Red Bishop Wire-tailed Swallow Lesser Striped-Swallow African Harrier-Hawk

Halcyon albiventris Euplectes orix Hirundo smithii Hirundo abyssinica Polyboroides typus

Sunday, February 13, 2005.

Anthony and Gaitan were due to call for us at 0630 hrs for breakfast, so I got up a little earlier to see if there were any Owls in the garden. There were not, but I did hear one calling in the night. The four of us had a nice breakfast together and we left at 0700 hrs. We gave them a nice tip because they gave us a great supper and Mog took a picture of Teddy.
We drove for about two hours on a terrible road, (it should have taken one and a half hours), to Kilombero Marsh, a vast expanse of marsh alongside the Kilombero River. We got out of the bus about a quarter of a mile from the river and walked to it. Almost immediately, Anthony found the White-tailed Cisticola, a recently discovered bird (about 1999, I think) and then the Coucal and the special Kilombero Weaver. A little later he found the Kilombero Cisticola. At the river he found the Lapwing. On the way back I found a lifer for him, the Fulleborn’s Longclaw. We had a good morning! Back at the hotel, we had lunch together and then quickly packed and took off again.
On the road we got stopped by a policeman wanting a bribe, but Gaitan refused to pay and paid the full penalty of 60,000 shillings, which made the policeman write out a ticket with his number on it. Gaitan will contest the ticket later. We stopped in the Miombo forest again, and this time, I managed to get Anthony out of the bus and keep him out, although he wouldn’t walk, ostensibly because of the army being in the forest. ( This very excellent birding area has been occupied by the Tanzanian army,walking and use of Cameras by foreigners is prohibited ) We saw a few more species than if we had stayed in the bus, I believe.
It was a long drive in the wonderful hours between 1700 and 1900 when everything cools down and the light is great. When we arrived at the Morogoro Kola Hills Hotel, Anthony settled us in and then took off promising to call for us about 0900 hrs in the morning.

Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel & journey to Kilombero Marsh;
Trip Date: 13-2-05
Species Seen: 20

Common Bulbul Black Kite Pied Crow African Wood-Owl

Pycnonotus barbatus Milvus migrans Corvus albus Strix woodfordii

One was heard in the early hours. I described the call to Anthony and he told me.

Trumpeter Hornbill

Ceratogymna bucinator

Several were crying in the dawn light and one was seen.

Village Weaver

Ploceus cucullatus

A medium sized colony was in some Palm trees.

Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Striped Kingfisher Yellow Bishop Red Bishop Zanzibar Bishop

Turtur chalcospilos Halcyon chelicuti Euplectes capensis Euplectes orix Euplectes nigroventris

Several were seen again today.

Fan-tailed Widowbird Red-necked Falcon Brown-hooded Kingfisher Southern Brown-throated Weaver

Euplectes axillaris Falco chicquera Halcyon albiventris Ploceus xanthopterus

Three or four small colonies were seen en route. Anthony said that he discovered them last year.

F Bat-like Spinetail

Neafrapus boehmi

I spotted two of these birds whilst we were at the Southern Brown-throated Weaver site.

Pin-tailed Whydah Red-eyed Dove Fork-tailed Drongo White-fronted Bee-eater

Vidua macroura Streptopelia semitorquata Dicrurus adsimilis Merops bullockoides

Kilombero Marshes; It was a vast area, but disturbed.

Trip Date: 13-2-05
Species Seen: 29

Coppery-tailed Coucal

Centropus cupreicaudus

Several were sitting up high on clumps of grass and calling.

F White-tailed Cisticola

Cisticola sp.

One was seen almost right away and later others were seen.

African Openbill Fan-tailed Widowbird Red-headed Quelea

Anastomus lamelligerus Euplectes axillaris Quelea erythrops

Small flocks of these birds swirled over the marsh.

Pied Kingfisher F Kilombero Weaver

Ceryle rudis Ploceus burnieri

A small colony was found and then others were seen later as we walked to the river.

Gray-headed Sparrow

Passer griseus

The southern variety was seen.

Palm-nut Vulture

Gypohierax angolensis

Several flew over.

Jameson's Firefinch Rufous-tailed Shrike

Lagonosticta rhodopareia Lanius isabellinus

I saw this bird in Greece.

F Kilombero Cisticola

Cisticola sp.

This was the most difficult to find today, but it had a characteristic call or song.

Spur-winged Goose African Marsh-Harrier Long-tailed Cormorant European Bee-eater Village Indigobird

Plectropterus gambensis Circus ranivorus Phalacrocorax africanus Merops apiaster Vidua chalybeata

Three were perched on separate wires.

Zebra Waxbill Black-headed Heron Gray Heron Spotted Sandpiper White-headed Lapwing

Sporaeginthus subflavus Ardea melanocephala Ardea cinerea Actitis macularia Vanellus albiceps

One was seen through the telescope on the far bank of the river.

African Fish-Eagle F Racket-tailed Roller

Haliaeetus vocifer Coracias spatulata

One was sitting on a telephone pole.

F Dickinson's Kestrel

Falco dickinsoni

A gray Kestrel with a white head was on a telephone pole.

F Fasciated Snake-Eagle

Circaetus fasciolatus

One was seen flying.

Red-collared Widowbird F Fuelleborn's Longclaw

Euplectes ardens Macronyx fuellebornii

I heard the two note song of this bird and searched for it, finding it high up on top of a bush. I pointed it out to Anthony. It was a lifer for him.

Long-crested Eagle

Lophaetus occipitalis

Kilombero to Miombo Forest at Mikumi;
Trip Date: 13-2-05
Species Seen: 4

Gabar Goshawk Lilac-breasted Roller White-winged Widowbird Hamerkop

Micronisus gabar Coracias caudata Euplectes albonotatus Scopus umbretta

Mikumi Miombo Forest; A second visit.
Trip Date: 13-2-05
Species Seen: 9

Eastern Chanting-Goshawk F Variable Indigobird

Melierax poliopterus Vidua funerea

This was right next to the Chanting Goshawk.

African Gray Flycatcher Fork-tailed Drongo F Pale Batis

Bradornis microrhynchus Dicrurus adsimilis Batis soror

Both male & female were seen.

White-headed Black-Chat Rufous-bellied Tit White-winged Black-Tit Retz's Helmetshrike

Myrmecocichla arnotti Melaniparus rufiventris Melaniparus leucomelas Prionops retzii

Mikumi to Morogoro; The Morogoro Kola Hill Hotel.
Trip Date: 13-2-05
Species Seen: 15

White Helmetshrike

Prionops plumatus

A few were together.

Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Helmeted Guineafowl Green Woodhoopoe

Telophorus sulfureopectus Numida meleagris Phoeniculus purpureus

A very good view was had of two birds.

Marabou Stork Red-billed Oxpecker White-bellied Bustard Red-faced Cisticola European Roller Purple-crested Turaco

Leptoptilos crumeniferus Buphagus erythrorhynchus Eupodotis senegalensis Cisticola erythrops Coracias garrulus Tauraco porphyreolophus

One flew over the road.

Abdim's Stork Lesser Striped-Swallow Dark Chanting-Goshawk Cattle Egret F Miombo Blue-eared Starling

Ciconia abdimii Hirundo abyssinica Melierax metabates Bubulcus ibis Lamprotornis elisabeth

One was seen.

Monday, February 14th, 2005.
I was up at 0640 hrs for a quick look around before breakfast at 0730 hrs. This was a buffet with local doctors attending a conference. At 0900 hrs. Gaitan and Anthony came for us and we set off right away to drive to Amani, hardly stopping on the way. We did stop off for lunch at a nice place by a road junction. We turned right to Amani and to the left pointed Arusha, so we’ll likely pass that way again. Once in the Amani Park, we arrived at 1600 hrs and walked the lower forest. We walked up the mountain a fine distance and saw a few birds. After a while we drove up the rest of the way and had a short walk before dark. After dark at 1930 hrs we had supper with Anthony & Gaitan.

Morogoro Kola Hill Hotel; A quick look-see before breakfast.
Trip Date: 14-2-05
Species Seen: 5

Collared Palm-Thrush

Cichladusa arquata

Three birds were calling.

House Sparrow

Passer domesticus

There were many around the grounds.

Pied Crow Common Bulbul Blue-breasted Cordonbleu

Corvus albus Pycnonotus barbatus Uraeginthus angolensis

On the road to Amani; We only stopped for pit stops.

Trip Date: 14-2-05
Species Seen: 6

Red-collared Widowbird F Black Bishop

Euplectes ardens Euplectes gierowii

This bird has more red on the front.

Yellow Bishop Zanzibar Bishop Lilac-breasted Roller Red-faced Cisticola

Euplectes capensis Euplectes nigroventris Coracias caudata Cisticola erythrops

This has a very loud call for such a small bird.

Eastern Usambara lower mountain; We walked up hill.
Trip Date: 14-2-05
Species Seen: 13

Little Greenbul F Green-headed Oriole

Andropadus virens Oriolus chlorocephalus

We saw a young bird and heard the mother calling.

F Half-collared Kingfisher

Alcedo semitorquata

We saw two of these beautiful birds in the stream.

Mountain Wagtail

Motacilla clara

Two were also in the stream.

Eastern Mountain-Greenbul

Andropadus nigriceps

Anthony heard one.

Square-tailed Drongo Sombre Greenbul African Paradise-Flycatcher Forest Weaver

Dicrurus ludwigii Andropadus importunus Terpsiphone viridis Ploceus bicolor

Two were seen.

White-eared Barbet Trumpeter Hornbill Western Olive-Sunbird Eastern Olivaceous Warbler

Stactolaema leucotis Ceratogymna bucinator Cyanomitra obscura Hippolais pallida

East Usambara high altitude; Around the chalet.
Trip Date: 14-2-05
Species Seen: 7

Black-bellied Glossy-Starling

Lamprotornis corruscus

Two were high in a tree.

Waller's Starling Western Olive-Sunbird F Amani Sunbird

Onychognathus walleri Cyanomitra obscura Hedydipna pallidigaster

A brilliant bird!

Collared Sunbird

Hedydipna collaris

This was in the same tree as the other Sunbirds

F Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird

Anthreptes neglectus

This was another brilliance in the same tree.

African Pied Wagtail

Motacilla aguimp

Tuesday, February 15, 2005.
Anthony & I birded from 0630 – 0815 hrs and we had a wonderful time, finding a really good spot where there were lots of birds. After breakfast, the three of us (Gaitan had a morning off) hiked up to the peak where there was a great lookout, over the forest and several tea plantations. Lunch was at 1300 hrs and we ate together. At 1530 hrs Gaitan drove us down the mountain and around the tea plantations which produced more birds. We arrived back about 1900 hrs. just at dark and then ate together at 1930 hrs. Anthony and Geitan told us some very nice stories about their travel experiences with different birders they have taken out.It was interesting how their kind of Job lets them exposed to people of different thinkings.

Amani National Park; E. Usambara Mountains before breakfast.
Trip Date: 15-2-05
Species Seen: 30

Common Bulbul Trumpeter Hornbill Western Olive-Sunbird Green Barbet

Pycnonotus barbatus Ceratogymna bucinator Cyanomitra obscura Stactolaema olivacea

We heard this before we saw it.

Scarce Swift

Schoutedenapus myoptilus

Two flew overhead.

Yellow-bellied Greenbul White-eared Barbet White-browed Robin-Chat

Chlorocichla flaviventris Stactolaema leucotis Cossypha heuglini

Two were singing and where they were was an excellent site for birds in general.

F Broad-ringed White-eye

Zosterops poliogaster

Several were seen throughout the morning.

Black Sawwing African Green-Pigeon Green-headed Oriole

Psalidoprocne holomelas Treron calva Oriolus chlorocephalus

We saw this well and it was calling a lot.

Eastern Mountain-Greenbul Amani Sunbird Gray Cuckoo-shrike Black-bellied Glossy-Starling African Penduline-Tit F Short-tailed Batis

Andropadus nigriceps Hedydipna pallidigaster Coracina caesia Lamprotornis corruscus Anthoscopus caroli Batis mixta

Anthony calls this "Forest Batis".

Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird

Pogoniulus bilineatus

We saw this, whereas usually we hear it and never see it!

African Gray Flycatcher F Pallid Honeyguide

Bradornis microrhynchus Indicator meliphilus

I spotted this, but Anthony confirmed it.

F Cabanis' Greenbul African Dusky Flycatcher Cameroon Scrub-Warbler African Palm-Swift F Yellow-crowned Canary

Phyllastrephus cabanisi Muscicapa adusta Bradypterus lopezi Cypsiurus parvus Serinus flavivertex

One was in the scope.

F Yellow-bellied Waxbill

Estrilda quartinia

A small flock flew by.

Black-and-white Mannikin

Spermestes bicolor

An other flock was this species.

Tawny-flanked Prinia F Cabanis' Bunting

Prinia subflava Emberiza cabanisi

Two birds were perched in front of us for a while.

Amani National Park; E. Usambara Mtns. after breakfast.
Trip Date: 15-2-05
Species Seen: 13

Trumpeter Hornbill Long-crested Eagle African Paradise-Flycatcher African Dusky Flycatcher Cameroon Scrub-Warbler F Fischer's Greenbul

Ceratogymna bucinator Lophaetus occipitalis Terpsiphone viridis Muscicapa adusta Bradypterus lopezi Phyllastrephus fischeri

This was probably the dullest bird with Fischer's name attached to it.

F Crowned Hawk-Eagle

Stephanoaetus coronatus

This was a first.

Square-tailed Drongo Forest Weaver

Dicrurus ludwigii Ploceus bicolor

There were three in a mixed flock of birds around the Drongo.

Green Barbet Yellow-bellied Greenbul African Swift F Mountain Buzzard

Stactolaema olivacea Chlorocichla flaviventris Apus barbatus Buteo oreophilus

One flew over.

Amani National Park; E. Usambara Mtns. Tea Plantation 3-7 pm
Trip Date: 15-2-05
Species Seen: 30

Lesser Striped-Swallow Common Fiscal Spectacled Weaver Broad-ringed White-eye Abdim's Stork

Hirundo abyssinica Lanius collaris Ploceus ocularis Zosterops poliogaster Ciconia abdimii

One was perched high up on a tree.

Tawny-flanked Prinia F Kenrick's Starling

Prinia subflava Poeoptera kenricki

One was in the 'scope.

Black Sawwing Palm-nut Vulture African Harrier-Hawk White-rumped Swift Square-tailed Drongo Western Olive-Sunbird African Pied Wagtail Mosque Swallow F Peters' Twinspot

Psalidoprocne holomelas Gypohierax angolensis Polyboroides typus Apus caffer Dicrurus ludwigii Cyanomitra obscura Motacilla aguimp Hirundo senegalensis Hypargos niveoguttatus

Mog spotted these two flying out of tea bushes.

White-necked Raven

Corvus albicollis

Two flew over.

White-browed Robin-Chat Speckled Mousebird Black-and-white Mannikin Red-faced Cisticola Brown-hooded Kingfisher Grosbeak Weaver

Cossypha heuglini Colius striatus Spermestes bicolor Cisticola erythrops Halcyon albiventris Amblyospiza albifrons

Three birds were by a wonderful, newly built nest.

Scaly Francolin

Francolinus squamatus

Two birds were making a noise, but we couldn't see them.

Black-throated Wattle-eye F Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler

Platysteira peltata Bradypterus cinnamomeus

One bird was seen among the reeds.

F Southern Citril

Serinus hyposticutus

This was in the 'scope.

Yellow-fronted Canary Long-crested Eagle Fasciated Snake-Eagle

Serinus mozambicus Lophaetus occipitalis Circaetus fasciolatus

One was perched.

Wednesday, February 16, 2005.
Our before breakfast walk produce a lifer for Anthony. We all three walked after breakfast. After lunch we left Amani and motored to West Usambara, Muller’s Lodge. Mog stopped to do a little shopping in Muheza & I had to dash to a toilet (found in a gas station). The road from Mombo to Lushoto was made by the Germans and was still in excellent condition. The commander had a cottage and hence the road. The first two buildings that were built in Lushoto were a church and a jail. We stayed in Muller’s Lodge which was very comfortable. Believe it or not they had a fire going for us and a large German group.

The guys thought that it was cold up the mountain.

Amani Nature Park; Before breakfast.
Trip Date: 16-2-05
Species Seen: 20

Common Bulbul African Pied Wagtail F Usambara Akalat

Pycnonotus barbatus Motacilla aguimp Sheppardia montana

This was almost the first bird we saw in the dawn. Immediately we saw it, Anthony said "Akalat" and I said "Robin". It was a dull olive/gray color all over and has just caught something like a caterpillar. It was on a branch of a low bush. Pretty soon, it disappeared and we never saw it again in spite of some searching.

Western Olive-Sunbird African Paradise-Flycatcher Cameroon Scrub-Warbler Willow Warbler F White-chested Alethe

Cyanomitra obscura Terpsiphone viridis Bradypterus lopezi Phylloscopus trochilus Alethe fuelleborni

A bird flew across the path.

Cabanis' Greenbul Green Barbet

Phyllastrephus cabanisi Stactolaema olivacea

Heard only.

Green-headed Oriole Black-bellied Glossy-Starling Lizard Buzzard Black Sawwing White-eared Barbet Brown-hooded Kingfisher Bronze Mannikin Black-and-white Mannikin Yellow-bellied Waxbill Cabanis' Bunting

Oriolus chlorocephalus Lamprotornis corruscus Kaupifalco monogrammicus Psalidoprocne holomelas Stactolaema leucotis Halcyon albiventris Spermestes cucullatus Spermestes bicolor Estrilda quartinia Emberiza cabanisi

Two birds were again seen.

Amani Nature Reserve; After breakfast.
Trip Date: 16-2-05
Species Seen: 20

White-eared Barbet Green Barbet Common Bulbul Spectacled Weaver

Stactolaema leucotis Stactolaema olivacea Pycnonotus barbatus Ploceus ocularis

One was building a nest.

Cameroon Scrub-Warbler Kenrick's Starling Tropical Boubou

Bradypterus lopezi Poeoptera kenricki Laniarius aethiopicus

Heard only.

F Long-billed Tailorbird

Orthotomus moreaui

One was heard by Anthony & then we saw it fly into a bush, out of it and into another bush and finally across the path and into another bush.

Collared Sunbird Long-crested Eagle Amani Sunbird Common Waxbill Tambourine Dove Speckled Mousebird F Black-fronted Bushshrike

Hedydipna collaris Lophaetus occipitalis Hedydipna pallidigaster Estrilda astrild Turtur tympanistria Colius striatus Telophorus nigrifrons

One was heard.

African Stonechat

Saxicola torquata

A female was seen.

Gray Wagtail Sombre Greenbul

Motacilla cinerea Andropadus importunus

Anthony says Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul.

Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird

Pogoniulus bilineatus

Heard only.

Fischer's Turaco

Tauraco fischeri

These were heard again, but not really seen, although there was a glimpse of them flying away.

E. Usambara to W. Usambara; En route.
Trip Date: 16-2-05
Species Seen: 8

Eastern Chanting-Goshawk Black-headed Heron Cattle Egret Mocking Cliff-Chat

Melierax poliopterus Ardea melanocephala Bubulcus ibis Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris

Two were sitting on rocks by a stream on the way to Lushoto.

Common Sandpiper

Actitis hypoleucos

One flew up the stream as we were watching the Cliff Chats.

Hamerkop Red-winged Starling F Dusky Turtle-Dove

Scopus umbretta Onychognathus morio Streptopelia lugens

One was on the road.

Thursday, February 17, 2005.
Breakfast was at 0630 hrs., before the German contingent, and we went along the sawmill track by bus and then walked into beautiful Magamba Forest. It was cool and still and we saw birds right away, most of them new. We went back lunch at 1300 hrs and rested until 1630 hrs when we went out again by bus. I went out into the grounds by myself for a while.

Muller's Lodge; W. Usambara. Morning Magamba Forest walk.
Trip Date: 17-2-05
Species Seen: 28

Common Bulbul Common Fiscal White-browed Coucal

Pycnonotus barbatus Lanius collaris Centropus superciliosus

Three were heard.

F Red-faced Crimson-wing

Cryptospiza reichenovii

As soon as we entered the forest, one was seen.

Broad-ringed White-eye F Eastern Double-collared Sunbird

Zosterops poliogaster Cinnyris mediocris

Both male and female were seen feeding.

Bar-throated Apalis Fuelleborn's Boubou

Apalis thoracica Laniarius fuelleborni

One was seen fairly soon after we entered the forest. It was furtive.

Olive Woodpecker

Dendropicos griseocephalus

A pair was seen.

F Usambara Weaver

Ploceus nicolli

A pair was seen.

White-starred Robin

Pogonocichla stellata

Several were seen.

Black-fronted Bushshrike

Telophorus nigrifrons

Two were seen and several were heard.

African Hill Babbler

Illadopsis abyssinica

One was heard, but not seen.

Yellow-bellied Greenbul F Ayres' Hawk-Eagle

Chlorocichla flaviventris Aquila ayresii

One flew over and may have been perched earlier. We saw it take off.

Yellow-throated Wood-Warbler

Phylloscopus ruficapillus

A couple were seen.

Terrestrial Brownbul Little Greenbul Rameron Pigeon Tambourine Dove F Delegorgue's Pigeon

Phyllastrephus terrestris Andropadus virens Columba arquatrix Turtur tympanistria Columba delegorguei

One was heard, but we couldn't locate it.

F Hartlaub's Turaco

Tauraco hartlaubi

A pair were seated on a branch allowing long looks.

African Dusky Flycatcher F Thick-billed Seedeater

Muscicapa adusta Serinus burtoni

One was on a tree.

Long-crested Eagle Black Sawwing F Stripe-cheeked Bulbul F African Tailorbird

Lophaetus occipitalis Psalidoprocne holomelas Andropadus milanjensis Orthotomus metopias

Anthony heard one and we saw it fly into a bush and across the path.

Muller's Lodge; After lunch by myself.
Trip Date: 17-2-05
Species Seen: 9

African Dusky Flycatcher

Muscicapa adusta

At the back of the lodge was a rubbish tip, with rotting vegetables and there were a lot of flies. There were many Flycatchers there, all Dusky, some with young.

Red-winged Starling Western Olive-Sunbird Black-and-white Mannikin Baglafecht Weaver Spectacled Weaver African Harrier-Hawk White-necked Raven F Swaheli Sparrow

Onychognathus morio Cyanomitra obscura Spermestes bicolor Ploceus baglafecht Ploceus ocularis Polyboroides typus Corvus albicollis Passer suahelicus

Two were nesting underneath the eaves at the lodge.

Muller's Lodge; W. Usambara. 1630 hrs;forest behind lodge.
Trip Date: 17-2-05
Species Seen: 23

Augur Buzzard African Swift Mottled Swift Eastern Double-collared Sunbird African Gray Flycatcher Pied Crow African Tailorbird

Buteo augur Apus barbatus Tachymarptis aequatorialis Cinnyris mediocris Bradornis microrhynchus Corvus albus Orthotomus metopias

I finally saw one after trying several.

African Hill Babbler Red-chested Cuckoo Eastern Mountain-Greenbul Black-fronted Bushshrike Delegorgue's Pigeon

Illadopsis abyssinica Cuculus solitarius Andropadus nigriceps Telophorus nigrifrons Columba delegorguei

Three flew over.

White-starred Robin Bar-throated Apalis F Black-headed Apalis

Pogonocichla stellata Apalis thoracica Apalis melanocephala

Two were in a tree with Warblers.

F Brown Woodland-Warbler

Phylloscopus umbrovirens

This was in the same tree as the Warblers.

Blackcap Yellow-throated Wood-Warbler Olive Woodpecker Red-faced Crimson-wing Common Waxbill Hamerkop Scaly Francolin

Sylvia atricapilla Phylloscopus ruficapillus Dendropicos griseocephalus Cryptospiza reichenovii Estrilda astrild Scopus umbretta Francolinus squamatus

Heard.

Friday, February 18, 2005.
After a 0630 hrs breakfast, we set off in the bus and after a couple of hours or so stopped just before a town called Game. We jumped out into a hot but windy environment and went for an hour’s walk. The vegetation was low shrubs with an occasional Acacia tree. There were very many varieties of birds. Mog and I got dehydrated and I got a little burned. We failed to see the White-eye which will become a separate species one day. We drove on to a lunch stop at about 1320 hrs. in Moshe and then, about an hour’s drive later we were dropped off on the outskirts of Arusha at the Maasai Safari Lodge. Anthony and Gaitan were going to spend the night with their families. Although the lodge looked to be in dreadful surroundings, it was quite nice inside with a beautiful garden. Unfortunately, it had just rained and was very windy. The rain soon stopped, but the wind didn’t, making it difficult to see the birds. We had an interesting meal in the garden of tough (too difficult to chew even) barbecue meats. There was one other couple nest door to us, Germans teachers who had been here ten years and were off home.

S. Pare Mountain; About 1000 hrs.
Trip Date: 18-2-05
Species Seen: 39

Cape Robin-Chat

Cossypha caffra

One flew over the road.

Lilac-breasted Roller Rufous-crowned Roller

Coracias caudata Coracias naevia

Two were perched in a dead tree.

Little Rock-Thrush Village Indigobird Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Common Waxbill Rock-loving Cisticola Red-billed Quelea African Gray Hornbill

Monticola rufocinereus Vidua chalybeata Uraeginthus bengalus Estrilda astrild Cisticola aberran Quelea quelea Tockus nasutus

Heard only.

African Gray Flycatcher Eastern Paradise-Whydah

Bradornis microrhynchus Vidua paradisaea

Flocks of them were flying across the sky, their tails obviously not slowing them down.

Eurasian Buzzard Black-crowned Tchagra Common Bulbul D'Arnaud's Barbet Speckled Mousebird Green-winged Pytilia Red-backed Scrub-Robin F Red-fronted Warbler

Buteo buteo Tchagra senegala Pycnonotus barbatus Trachyphonus darnaudii Colius striatus Pytilia melba Cercotrichas leucophrys Urorhipis rufifrons

Three were seen.

Laughing Dove Von der Decken's Hornbill Red-billed Hornbill Gray Wren-Warbler Amethyst Sunbird Pale Flycatcher Red-chested Cuckoo Red-faced Crombec Black-necked Weaver Slate-colored Boubou Spotted Ground-Thrush Purple Grenadier Yellow-breasted Apalis White-headed Buffalo-Weaver White-rumped Shrike Kenya Violet-backed Sunbird

Streptopelia senegalensis Tockus deckeni Tockus erythrorhynchus Calamonastes simplex Chalcomitra amethystina Bradornis pallidus Cuculus solitarius Sylvietta whytii Ploceus nigricollis Laniarius funebris Zoothera guttata Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Apalis flavida Dinemellia dinemelli Eurocephalus rueppelli Anthreptes orientalis

Now known as Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird.

Beautiful Sunbird African Palm-Swift Hunter's Sunbird

Cinnyris pulchellus Cypsiurus parvus Chalcomitra hunteri

Maasai Safari Lodge; On the outskirts of Arusha.
Trip Date: 18-2-05
Species Seen: 7

Red-eyed Dove Rameron Pigeon Speckled Mousebird Blue-naped Mousebird Streaky Seedeater F Straw-tailed Whydah Collared Sunbird

Streptopelia semitorquata Columba arquatrix Colius striatus Urocolius macrourus Serinus striolatus Vidua fischeri Hedydipna collaris

Saturday, February 19th, 2005.
Anthony and Gaitan came for us at 0700 hrs after we had finished breakfast. We drove all the way to Ngorongoro Crater, passed the Oldevai Gorge and across the Serengeti Plain to the Ikoma Gate and about 3 kms beyond to the Ikoma Tented Camp, arriving about 1700 hrs. We were very hot and tired. The tent was solar powered so I didn’t have long to do this log.

Maasai Safari Lodge; A quick look.
Trip Date: 19-2-05
Species Seen: 5

Collared Sunbird Red-eyed Dove Tropical Boubou

Hedydipna collaris Streptopelia semitorquata Laniarius aethiopicus

One was seen and made a hooting noise.

Abdim's Stork Gray Wren-Warbler

Ciconia abdimii Calamonastes simplex

Arusha to Serengeti; Ikoma Tented Camp.
Trip Date: 19-2-05
Species Seen: 58

Ostrich Capped Wheatear Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Tawny Eagle Augur Buzzard Crowned Lapwing Long-tailed Fiscal Superb Starling F Northern Pied-Babbler

Struthio camelus Oenanthe pileata Circaetus pectoralis Aquila rapax Buteo augur Vanellus coronatus Lanius cabanisi Lamprotornis superbus Turdoides hypoleucus

A small flock was seen.

Spur-winged Goose Black-headed Heron Gray Heron Abdim's Stork White Stork Yellow-billed Stork

Plectropterus gambensis Ardea melanocephala Ardea cinerea Ciconia abdimii Ciconia ciconia Mycteria ibis

Ten of them were in one tree.

Taita Fiscal White-bellied Go-away-bird Red-billed Hornbill Fischer's Sparrow-Lark Black-shouldered Kite Red-rumped Swallow Village Indigobird Lilac-breasted Roller European Roller Marabou Stork F Schalow's Turaco

Lanius dorsalis Corythaixoides leucogaster Tockus erythrorhynchus Eremopterix leucopareia Elanus caeruleus Hirundo daurica Vidua chalybeata Coracias caudata Coracias garrulus Leptoptilos crumeniferus Tauraco schalowi

What a beauty! Two birds were seen.

F Black-winged Bishop Nyanza Swift Kori Bustard

Euplectes hordeaceus Apus niansae Ardeotis kori

Several were seen.

Pallid Harrier Montagu's Harrier

Circus macrourus Circus pygargus

Two were seen.

Cape Crow Red-capped Lark F Vitelline Masked-Weaver

Corvus capensis Calandrella cinerea Ploceus vitellinus

These were at the Oldevai Gorge Centre.

Speckle-fronted Weaver Gray-headed Social-Weaver Swaheli Sparrow Spotted Thick-knee Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Yellow-bellied Eremomela White-backed Vulture Lappet-faced Vulture Three-banded Plover Common Ringed Plover Blacksmith Plover Ruff Common Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper F Rufous-tailed Weaver

Sporopipes frontalis Pseudonigrita arnaudi Passer suahelicus Burhinus capensis Bubalornis niger Eremomela icteropygialis Gyps africanus Torgos tracheliotus Charadrius tricollaris Charadrius hiaticula Vanellus armatus Philomachus pugnax Actitis hypoleucos Tringa glareola Histurgops ruficauda

There was a colony of these unique birds.

Intermediate Egret Cattle Egret Fischer's Lovebird Verreaux's Eagle-Owl

Egretta intermedia Bubulcus ibis Agapornis fischeri Bubo lacteus

Two were in a tree.

Egyptian Goose F Black Coucal

Alopochen aegyptiacus Centropus grillii

One flew over the road and then perched for us.

Pied Cuckoo Black-faced Sandgrouse

Clamator jacobinus Pterocles decoratus

Three were on the road.

African Pied Wagtail

Motacilla aguimp

Sunday, February 20, 2005.
We had a late breakfast at 0700 hrs and then drove slowly to the centre of the Serengeti. There we had refreshments and there was a very nice exhibit that we enjoyed walking around. We saw many birds (71 species) and were back at our tented camp by 1320 hrs for a perfect lunch and a rest.
At 1700 hrs we went to meet Anthony for a walk around the camp, but it was still too hot so we hung around for half an hour and then went. It was good. Many new guests arrived.
We had supper with the Swiss couple and then at 2030 hrs went on a night game drive where we saw quite a few birds.

Ikoma Tented Camp; Serengeti: A trip to the centre.
Trip Date: 20-2-05
Species Seen: 71

Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Hildebrandt's Starling Flappet Lark Rufous-naped Lark Gray-headed Social-Weaver Little Swift African Mourning Dove Red-eyed Dove Lesser Striped-Swallow Common Fiscal Helmeted Guineafowl Long-tailed Fiscal Black Coucal F Broad-tailed Paradise-Whydah

Lamprotornis purpuropterus Lamprotornis hildebrandti Mirafra rufocinnamomea Mirafra africana Pseudonigrita arnaudi Apus affinis Streptopelia decipiens Streptopelia semitorquata Hirundo abyssinica Lanius collaris Numida meleagris Lanius cabanisi Centropus grillii Vidua obtusa

A male was seen close up.

Fork-tailed Drongo White-browed Coucal Yellow-fronted Canary Lilac-breasted Roller European Roller Dideric Cuckoo Wattled Starling F Reichenow's Seedeater

Dicrurus adsimilis Centropus superciliosus Serinus mozambicus Coracias caudata Coracias garrulus Chrysococcyx caprius Creatophora cinerea Serinus reichenowi

I spotted these two birds.

Village Weaver Rufous Chatterer

Ploceus cucullatus Turdoides rubiginosus

A pair was seen.

Tawny-flanked Prinia Lesser Masked-Weaver Gray-backed Fiscal White-headed Sawwing Dark Chanting-Goshawk Little Bee-eater Bare-faced Go-away-bird Brown-crowned Tchagra Striated Heron Red-billed Hornbill F Gray-breasted Francolin

Prinia subflava Ploceus intermedius Lanius excubitoroides Psalidoprocne albiceps Melierax metabates Merops pusillus Corythaixoides personatus Tchagra australis Butorides striata Tockus erythrorhynchus Francolinus rufopictus

One was seen standing by a Termite mound.

Silverbird

Empidornis semipartitus

Several were seen.

Pygmy Falcon

Polihierax semitorquatus

Three were seen.

Abyssinian Scimitar-bill Eurasian Kestrel Pin-tailed Whydah Chestnut Sparrow D'Arnaud's Barbet Usambiro race Woodland Kingfisher F Thick-billed Cuckoo

Rhinopomastus minor Falco tinnunculus Vidua macroura Passer eminibey Trachyphonus darnaudii Halcyon senegalensis Pachycoccyx audeberti

One was seen.

Purple Grenadier African Gray Flycatcher Woolly-necked Stork Marabou Stork Pearl-spotted Owlet Yellow-billed Oxpecker F Magpie Starling

Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Bradornis microrhynchus Ciconia episcopus Leptoptilos crumeniferus Glaucidium perlatum Buphagus africanus Speculipastor bicolor

About six were seen.

Cattle Egret Yellow-throated Longclaw Ruff Common Sandpiper Blacksmith Plover Three-banded Plover F Kenya Rufous Sparrow

Bubulcus ibis Macronyx croceus Philomachus pugnax Actitis hypoleucos Vanellus armatus Charadrius tricollaris Passer rufocinctus

Several were seen around the centre.

Slate-colored Boubou

Laniarius funebris

Several were seen.

Scarlet-chested Sunbird Cardinal Woodpecker Green-backed Camaroptera Red-fronted Barbet Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Common Bulbul Speckled Mousebird Blue-capped Cordonbleu Rock Martin Meyer's Parrot Gabar Goshawk Green-winged Pytilia

Chalcomitra senegalensis Dendropicos fuscescens Camaroptera brachyura Tricholaema diademata Cinnyris mediocris Pycnonotus barbatus Colius striatus Uraeginthus cyanocephalus Hirundo fuligula Poicephalus meyeri Micronisus gabar Pytilia melba

Ikoma Tented Camp; 1730 hrs walk around the camp.
Trip Date: 20-2-05
Species Seen: 30

Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove African Mourning Dove Red-eyed Dove Flappet Lark Green-backed Camaroptera Angola Swallow Wire-tailed Swallow Lesser Striped-Swallow Barn Swallow Swaheli Sparrow Chestnut Sparrow Buff-bellied Warbler Upcher's Warbler

Turtur chalcospilos Streptopelia decipiens Streptopelia semitorquata Mirafra rufocinnamomea Camaroptera brachyura Hirundo angolensis Hirundo smithii Hirundo abyssinica Hirundo rustica Passer suahelicus Passer eminibey Phyllolais pulchella Hippolais languida

Three were in the same tree.

Willow Warbler Vitelline Masked-Weaver White-browed Robin-Chat Brown-backed Scrub-Robin Bare-faced Go-away-bird F White-bellied Canary Yellow-crowned Canary Speke's Weaver Winding Cisticola Chinspot Batis Scarlet-chested Sunbird African Gray Flycatcher Fork-tailed Drongo Silverbird Long-crested Eagle Banded Warbler

Phylloscopus trochilus Ploceus vitellinus Cossypha heuglini Cercotrichas hartlaubi Corythaixoides personatus Serinus dorsostriatus Serinus flavivertex Ploceus spekei Cisticola galactotes Batis molitor Chalcomitra senegalensis Bradornis microrhynchus Dicrurus adsimilis Empidornis semipartitus Lophaetus occipitalis Parisoma boehmi

Two were seen.

Dideric Cuckoo

Chrysococcyx caprius

Ikoma Tented Camp; A night drive.
Trip Date: 20-2-05
Species Seen: 6

Spotted Eagle-Owl

Bubo africanus

The guides drove us through their village to see this bird.

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl

Bubo lacteus

The guides found two in a tree.

Spotted Thick-knee

Burhinus capensis

Some were on the soccer field in the village.

Freckled Nightjar

Caprimulgus tristigma

One was seen close up sitting on a branch. It did not move.

Slender-tailed Nightjar

Caprimulgus clarus

Several of these were on the track and one didn't move out of the way. We were so close that we could have picked it up.

F Pennant-winged Nightjar

Macrodipteryx vexillarius

One was caught in the light as it was perched on a stick and then it flew and we followed it for a way to look at the tail and wing markings. Unfortunately, it was not a male.

Monday, February 21, 2005.
We left after a 0630 breakfast and drove without too much stopping until we exited the park. There we wandered a bit until Gaitan finished the paperwork. We arrived at the crater about 1100 hrs and entered it right away, doing a circular tour and stopping for a packed lunch at the picnic site. After driving around a bit and not seeing much new, we decided to check in to the Sopa Lodge, a very expensive lodge. Anthony spent some time with me on the balcony pointing out some new Sunbirds.
We had a meal with over 200 others in the evening.

Ikoma to Ngorongoro Crater inclusive; A wonderful day.
Trip Date: 21-2-05
Species Seen: 110

Ostrich

Struthio camelus

Many were in the crater.

Little Grebe

Tachybaptus ruficollis

One was in the lake during our lunch break (Lake Matak, I think.)

White-browed Coucal Magpie Shrike Long-tailed Fiscal Common Sandpiper Red-eyed Dove Ring-necked Dove Dark Chanting-Goshawk Black-faced Sandgrouse

Centropus superciliosus Corvinella melanoleuca Lanius cabanisi Actitis hypoleucos Streptopelia semitorquata Streptopelia capicola Melierax metabates Pterocles decoratus

Three were on the road.

Yellow-throated Sandgrouse

Pterocles gutturalis

Three were on the road.

Red-billed Quelea Helmeted Guineafowl Black Crake

Quelea quelea Numida meleagris Amaurornis flavirostris

Two were seen by a stream

Three-banded Plover European Roller White-winged Widowbird African Gray Hornbill White-backed Vulture Hooded Vulture Marabou Stork Gray-backed Fiscal Kori Bustard Black-bellied Bustard White-bellied Bustard White Stork Pallid Harrier Eurasian Kestrel Montagu's Harrier Superb Starling Hildebrandt's Starling Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Chestnut Sparrow Gray-headed Social-Weaver Chinspot Batis Yellow-bellied Eremomela Willow Warbler Beautiful Sunbird Silverbird Brimstone Canary Pale Flycatcher Crowned Lapwing F Bronze-winged Courser F Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye Banded Martin F Schalow's Wheatear

Charadrius tricollaris Coracias garrulus Euplectes albonotatus Tockus nasutus Gyps africanus Necrosyrtes monachus Leptoptilos crumeniferus Lanius excubitoroides Ardeotis kori Lissotis melanogaster Eupodotis senegalensis Ciconia ciconia Circus macrourus Falco tinnunculus Circus pygargus Lamprotornis superbus Lamprotornis hildebrandti Bubalornis niger Passer eminibey Pseudonigrita arnaudi Batis molitor Eremomela icteropygialis Phylloscopus trochilus Cinnyris pulchellus Empidornis semipartitus Serinus sulphuratus Bradornis pallidus Vanellus coronatus Rhinoptilus chalcopterus Platysteira concreta Riparia cincta Oenanthe schalowi

Three were seen just after entering the crater.

Secretary-bird Northern Anteater-Chat Abdim's Stork

Sagittarius serpentarius Myrmecocichla aethiops Ciconia abdimii

There were hundreds in the crater.

Red-capped Lark African Pipit Yellow Wagtail White-rumped Swift Greater Sandplover Kittlitz's Plover

Calandrella cinere Anthus cinnamomeus Motacilla flava Apus caffer Charadrius leschenaultii Charadrius pecuarius

The majority of the Plovers were these.

Chestnut-banded Plover

Charadrius pallidus

At least one was seen.

Snowy Plover Curlew Sandpiper Ruff Little Stint Wood Sandpiper Pied Avocet Lesser Spotted Eagle

Charadrius alexandrinus Calidris ferruginea Philomachus pugnax Calidris minuta Tringa glareola Recurvirostra avosetta Aquila pomarina

Three were soaring.

Steppe Eagle

Aquila nipalensis

One was on the ground.

Red-billed Duck Yellow-billed Duck Northern Shoveler Hottentot Teal Gray Crowned-Crane

Anas erythrorhyncha Anas undulata Anas clypeata Anas hottentota Balearica regulorum

There were 70 birds in one spot.

Lappet-faced Vulture Intermediate Egret Cattle Egret Barn Swallow Gray Heron Black-headed Heron Long-toed Lapwing

Torgos tracheliotus Egretta intermedia Bubulcus ibis Hirundo rustica Ardea cinerea Ardea melanocephala Vanellus crassirostris

30 were in one spot.

Black Heron Yellow-billed Stork African Jacana Black Kite

Egretta ardesiaca Mycteria ibis Actophilornis africanus Milvus migrans

There were hundreds, especially around the picnic site where they were inclined to take stuff out of one's hand. Everyone had to eat in the vans.

Rufous-tailed Weaver Fischer's Sparrow-Lark Dusky Turtle-Dove Spur-winged Goose Rueppell's Griffon Green-backed Camaroptera Senegal Lapwing

Histurgops ruficauda Eremopterix leucopareia Streptopelia lugens Plectropterus gambensis Gyps rueppellii Camaroptera brachyura Vanellus lugubris

Several were in one spot.

Sacred Ibis Glossy Ibis Greater Flamingo Lesser Flamingo Common Fiscal F Hunter's Cisticola

Threskiornis aethiopicus Plegadis falcinellus Phoenicopterus roseus Phoenicopterus minor Lanius collaris Cisticola hunteri

Several were heard and seen.

Cape Robin-Chat White-browed Robin-Chat African Stonechat White-necked Raven House Martin Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Golden-winged Sunbird

Cossypha caffra Cossypha heuglini Saxicola torquata Corvus albicollis Delichon urbica Cinnyris mediocris Drepanorhynchus reichenowi

Several males were seen.

White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher

Melaenornis fischeri

Several came to eat our pastries. I thought they were flycatchers.

Baglafecht Weaver Thick-billed Seedeater Streaky Seedeater F Tacazze Sunbird

Ploceus baglafecht Serinus burtoni Serinus striolatus Nectarinia tacazze

These were large beautiful birds.

Mosque Swallow Speckled Pigeon Speckled Mousebird F Montane Nightjar

Hirundo senegalensis Columba guinea Colius striatus Caprimulgus ruwenzorii

One was heard after dark.

Gray-capped Warbler

Eminia lepida

Tuesday, February 22, 2005.
This morning I had a dawn visit to the garden balcony, where it was surprisingly windy and cold and then went back to pick up Mog for breakfast. Anthony met us after and we drove along the rim of the crater, then on to the tarmac road just outside the park and on to Tarangire. We stopped in a field for morning tea and at Tarangire entrance for lunch. After check in, we used the telescope to spot birds coming to the river. At 1630 hrs. Anthony took us on a game drive. Returning at 1900 hrs, we had a drink with them and they asked us how it had been and gave us the tickets for Pemba Island and a present each. We told them that we had had a wonderful trip and that we had really enjoyed it. We thought that they had been fantastic to us. There was a barbecue supper and afterwards a Leopard tried to join in. It was only a short distance away from us.

Ngorongoro Crater rim; Sopa Lodge garden at 0640 hrs.
Trip Date: 22-2-05
Species Seen: 14

Black Kite Speckled Pigeon Woodland Kingfisher Barn Swallow Lesser Striped-Swallow House Martin African Pied Wagtail F Plain Greenbul

Milvus migrans Columba guinea Halcyon senegalensis Hirundo rustica Hirundo abyssinica Delichon urbica Motacilla aguimp Andropadus curvirostris

One was in the tangle.

Hunter's Cisticola White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher Cape Robin-Chat Golden-winged Sunbird Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Baglafecht Weaver

Cisticola hunteri Melaenornis fischeri Cossypha caffra Drepanorhynchus reichenowi Cinnyris mediocris Ploceus baglafecht

Ngorongoro Crater to Tarangire; Until lunch at entrance.
Trip Date: 22-2-05
Species Seen: 26

Mountain Wagtail

Motacilla clara

One was on a rock in a pond.

Cape Robin-Chat Streaky Seedeater F Usambara Thrush

Cossypha caffra Serinus striolatus Turdus roehli

One was seen.

Cape Robin-Chat Streaky Seedeater F Usambara Thrush

Cossypha caffra Serinus striolatus Turdus roehli

One was seen.

Common Bulbul African Dusky Flycatcher Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Collared Sunbird F Black-faced Waxbill

Pycnonotus barbatus Muscicapa adusta Merops oreobates Hedydipna collaris Estrilda erythronotos

Three were in the same tree when we stopped for morning tea.

Little Bee-eater Black-shouldered Kite Yellow-breasted Apalis Banded Warbler F Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush

Merops pusillus Elanus caeruleus Apalis flavida Parisoma boehmi Monticola saxatilis

A pair were in a tree.

Northern Wheatear Spotted Thick-knee Olive-tree Warbler

Oenanthe oenanthe Burhinus capensis Hippolais olivetorum

I'm fairly sure this was the bird.

White-crowned Shrike Beautiful Sunbird F Yellow-collared Lovebird Superb Starling F Ashy Starling

Eurocephalus anguitimens Cinnyris pulchellus Agapornis personatus Lamprotornis superbus Spreo unicolor

This is another bird endemic to the area.

Variable Indigobird F Steel-blue Whydah

Vidua funerea Vidua hypocherina

Another newy!

Crimson-rumped Waxbill Chestnut Sparrow

Estrilda rhodopyga Passer eminibey

Tarangire; Lunch to 1630 hrs, mainly from the tent.
Trip Date: 22-2-05
Species Seen: 21

Ashy Starling Marabou Stork Bateleur Hooded Vulture White-backed Vulture Lappet-faced Vulture Tawny Eagle Blacksmith Plover Wood Sandpiper Common Sandpiper Little Stint Black-winged Stilt African Pied Wagtail Superb Starling Yellow-collared Lovebird Mosque Swallow Barn Swallow Laughing Dove White-browed Coucal Green-backed Camaroptera Ruff

Spreo unicolor Leptoptilos crumeniferus Terathopius ecaudatus Necrosyrtes monachus Gyps africanus Torgos tracheliotus Aquila rapax Vanellus armatus Tringa glareola Actitis hypoleucos Calidris minuta Himantopus himantopus Motacilla aguimp Lamprotornis superbus Agapornis personatus Hirundo senegalensis Hirundo rustica Streptopelia senegalensis Centropus superciliosus Camaroptera brachyur Philomachus pugnax

Tarangire; A game drive at 1630 hrs.
Trip Date: 22-2-05
Species Seen: 30

Yellow-necked Francolin African Gray Hornbill Red-billed Hornbill Lilac-breasted Roller Superb Starling Yellow-collared Lovebird Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bare-faced Go-away-bird White-bellied Go-away-bird White-crowned Shrike Magpie Shrike Gray Heron Barn Swallow Marsh Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper Common Greenshank House Martin Red-and-yellow Barbet Little Ringed Plover Red-chested Cuckoo

Francolinus leucoscepus Tockus nasutus Tockus erythrorhynchus Coracias caudata Lamprotornis superbus Agapornis personatus Bubalornis niger Corythaixoides personatus Corythaixoides leucogaster Eurocephalus anguitimens Corvinella melanoleuca Ardea cinerea Hirundo rustica Tringa stagnatilis Tringa glareola Tringa nebularia Delichon urbica Trachyphonus erythrocephalus Charadrius dubius Cuculus solitarius

Heard only.

Dideric Cuckoo

Chrysococcyx caprius

Heard only.

Ruff Black-faced Sandgrouse Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Steppe Eagle Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Crested Francolin Long-tailed Fiscal Wattled Starling Helmeted Guineafowl

Philomachus pugnax Pterocles decoratus Pterocles gutturalis Aquila nipalensis Circaetus pectoralis Francolinus sephaena Lanius cabanisi Creatophora cinerea Numida meleagris

Wednesday, February 23rd., 2005.
We had a 0700 hrs breakfast and then Anthony & Gaitan took us on a game drive, where we saw several new species. We got back to the lodge early, packed and had an early lunch (much to the disgust of the waitresses) only to be told by Anthony that they would delay departure until 1330 hrs. In the meantime the South Africans that we had talked to the previous night and discovered that they were birders, all five of them, returned from a morning safari to say that they had seen a Three banded Courser and could give us directions. It would be about 15 minutes out of our way. Anthony was not willing to chance it, unfortunately, but we did stop for a couple of other Coursers on the four hour journey to Arusha. We were returned to our dingy Arusha Safari Lodge for the night. The same man as previously served us our supper of lamb chop which was so tough that we were suspicious that he had cooked his shoes.

Tarangire National Park; A game drive in the morning.
Trip Date: 23-2-05
Species Seen: 56

Western Violet-backed Sunbird Beautiful Sunbird Ashy Starling African Marsh-Harrier Western Marsh-Harrier Hooded Vulture White-backed Vulture Superb Starling White-rumped Shrike Crested Francolin F Hildebrandt's Francolin

Anthreptes longuemarei Cinnyris pulchellus Spreo unicolor Circus ranivorus Circus aeruginosus Necrosyrtes monachus Gyps africanus Lamprotornis superbus Eurocephalus rueppelli Francolinus sephaena Francolinus hildebrandti

Several were seen.

Yellow-necked Francolin Lilac-breasted Roller Black-faced Sandgrouse Barn Swallow Lesser Striped-Swallow Blue-breasted Cordonbleu Helmeted Guineafowl Common Quail Yellow-collared Lovebird

Francolinus leucoscepus Coracias caudata Pterocles decoratus Hirundo rustica Hirundo abyssinica Uraeginthus angolensis Numida meleagris Coturnix coturnix Agapornis personatus

There were many everywhere.

Magpie Shrike Swaheli Sparrow F Black-lored Babbler

Corvinella melanoleuca Passer suahelicus Turdoides sharpei

Three were making such a racket in a bush.

Little Bee-eater Woodland Kingfisher Rock Martin Three-banded Plover Common Sandpiper African Gray Hornbill Red-billed Hornbill F African Cuckoo-Hawk

Merops pusillus Halcyon senegalensis Hirundo fuligula Charadrius tricollaris Actitis hypoleucos Tockus nasutus Tockus erythrorhynchus Aviceda cuculoides

One flew over.

African Swift Blacksmith Plover African Mourning Dove Red-eyed Dove Ring-necked Dove Laughing Dove Green Woodhoopoe Common Snipe Egyptian Goose African Palm-Swift African Fish-Eagle Goliath Heron Common Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper Gray Crowned-Crane Saddle-billed Stork Bateleur Red-billed Oxpecker White-bellied Go-away-bird Black-winged Stilt Red-and-yellow Barbet Slate-colored Boubou Banded Warbler Spotted Flycatcher African Gray Flycatcher African Cuckoo

Apus barbatus Vanellus armatus Streptopelia decipiens Streptopelia semitorquata Streptopelia capicola Streptopelia senegalensis Phoeniculus purpureus Gallinago gallinago Alopochen aegyptiacus Cypsiurus parvus Haliaeetus vocifer Ardea goliath Actitis hypoleucos Tringa glareola Balearica regulorum Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Terathopius ecaudatus Buphagus erythrorhynchus Corythaixoides leucogaster Himantopus himantopus Trachyphonus erythrocephalus Laniarius funebris Parisoma boehmi Muscicapa striata Bradornis microrhynchus Cuculus gularis

Tarangire to Arusha; One stop only.
Trip Date: 23-2-05
Species Seen: 2

Temminck's Courser

Cursorius temminckii

Four were seen.

Bronze-winged Courser

Rhinoptilus chalcopterus

One was seen in the distance.

Arusha Safari Lodge; The garden in the evening.
Trip Date: 23-2-05
Species Seen: 15

Common Bulbul Pied Crow Red-eyed Dove Olive-tree Warbler

Pycnonotus barbatus Corvus albus Streptopelia semitorquata Hippolais olivetorum

One of many migrants that were in the garden.

Upcher's Warbler

Hippolais languida

Another migrant was in the garden.

Blackcap

Sylvia atricapilla

Another couple of these migrants were in the garden.

Chestnut Weaver

Ploceus rubiginosus

One was being very furtive in the hedge.

Baglafecht Weaver African Firefinch Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill

Ploceus baglafecht Lagonosticta rubricata Ceratogymna subcylindricus

Many flew over.

African Gray Flycatcher Speckled Mousebird Tropical Boubou

Bradornis microrhynchus Colius striatus Laniarius aethiopicus

Heard only.

Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird

Pogoniulus bilineatus

Heard only.

Collared Sunbird

Hedydipna collaris

Both male and female were seen.

Thursday, February 24, 2005.
We had a 0730 hrs breakfast and lazed away the morning in the very pleasant gardens of the Arusha Safari Lodge. After an early lunch, Anthony & Gaitan picked us up at 1230 hrs and drove us to the airport. We gave them their presents and bade them a warm farewell. We were very sorry to say goodbye to them as they had been very good to us. Then, we waited for the plane for an hour. It was a small plane and traveled at 10,000 ft, I suspect. We felt starved of Oxygen. We changed planes in Zanzibar. The flight to Pemba took about 45 minutes and Josef, the taxi man come politician was there to meet us. The drive was 90 minutes and he stopped for mail and drinks for us (it was so hot!!) at Chake Chake. He also stopped to give his “best friend” a lift, who, when dropped off, introduced us to his wife and two children. They worked in Ireland. We also stopped at a swamp, but there were few birds there. The lodge was quite nice but not what we expected. Mog will be able to dive tomorrow.

Arusha Safari Lodge; We had a morning to wait.
Trip Date: 24-2-05
Species Seen: 11

Collared Sunbird Amethyst Sunbird Common Bulbul Red-eyed Dove Speckled Mousebird Willow Warbler Blackcap Little Sparrowhawk

Hedydipna collaris Chalcomitra amethystina Pycnonotus barbatus Streptopelia semitorquata Colius striatus Phylloscopus trochilus Sylvia atricapilla Accipiter minullus

One flew over.

Swaheli Sparrow Golden-breasted Bunting Black-backed Puffback

Passer suahelicus Emberiza flaviventris Dryoscopus cubla

Friday, February 25th, 2005.
I was up at 0600 hrs and out by first light. I wasn’t sure when Josef would be coming as he had said 0730 and then 0630 hrs. Right away, I saw the White-eyes and the Sunbird. Josef came around 0700 hrs. Mog had arranged to have a dive this morning. Josef took me around the north end of the island, including Wete, looking for the Pemba Green Pigeon. He knew many trees which had been in fruit, but now weren’t and consequently didn’t have any Pigeons in them. He showed me trees with huge Fruit Bats in them and took me for a drink and a biscuit at a local shop. We got back at 1310 hrs for lunch, having failed to see a Pigeon. After a rest during the heat of the day, Josef picked me up again and Mog went snorkeling. I insisted on walking, so that’s what we did, again to no avail. Josef showed me Bat caves and all sorts of other things. Just before sunset we were in a clearing in the forest and saw a small flock of Green Pigeons land in a nearby tree – hooray! After dark, many Pemba Scops Owls started their hooting and we eventually got one in a borrowed flashlight. As we started to motor back, we had a puncture and spent about 45 minutes changing the tire, blocking the entire road through the forest. We were late for supper, but we had seen the birds!

Pemba Island; Manta Reef Lodge and Ngezi Forest.
Trip Date: 25-2-05
Species Seen: 34

Lesser Striped-Swallow F Pemba Sunbird

Hirundo abyssinica Cinnyris pembae

This was the second bird that I saw on the island. It was feeding from the flowers on the balcony.

Wire-tailed Swallow Barn Swallow F Plain-backed Sunbird

Hirundo smithii Hirundo rustica Anthreptes reichenowi

One was feeding with the Pemba Sunbird.

Bronze Mannikin Madagascar Bee-eater

Spermestes cucullatus Merops superciliosus

There were many seen throughout the day.

African Palm-Swift F Pemba White-eye

Cypsiurus parvus Zosterops vaughani

One was in a tree with Sunbirds.

African Gray Flycatcher Crowned Hornbill

Bradornis microrhynchus Tockus alboterminatus

Several were seen.

Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Tambourine Dove Pied Crow F Brown-headed Parrot

Turtur afer Turtur chalcospilos Turtur tympanistria Corvus albus Poicephalus cryptoxanthus

Several were heard and seen.

African Harrier-Hawk Sacred Ibis Great Egret African Jacana Little Ringed Plover Purple Heron Broad-billed Roller Violet-backed Starling Black-crowned Night-Heron Little Grebe Red-eyed Dove F Mangrove Kingfisher

Polyboroides typus Threskiornis aethiopicus Ardea alba Actophilornis africanus Charadrius dubius Ardea purpurea Eurystomus glaucurus Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Nycticorax nycticorax Tachybaptus ruficollis Streptopelia semitorquata Halcyon senegaloides

Two were in the same tree.

Southern Gray-headed Sparrow White-browed Coucal Dickinson's Kestrel

Passer diffusus Centropus superciliosus Falco dickinsoni

One was on a telephone wire.

African Paradise-Flycatcher House Crow Crab Plover

Terpsiphone viridis Corvus splendens Dromas ardeola

A flock flew past the lodge.

Pemba Island; Ngezi Forest late afternoon and evening.
Trip Date: 25-2-05
Species Seen: 6

African Palm-Swift Broad-billed Roller African Harrier-Hawk Madagascar Bee-eater F Pemba Green-Pigeon

Cypsiurus parvus Eurystomus glaucurus Polyboroides typus Merops superciliosus Treron pembaensis

Seven birds flew into a nearby tree at dusk and I had a good view. They flew on after several minutes.

F Pemba Scops-Owl

Otus pembaensis

Several called as we walked through the forest and we shone the flashlight and found one quite close.

Saturday, February 26th, 2005.
We were up for breakfast by 0700 hrs and packed. Josef picked us up at 0800 hrs and two of the staff came with us in the car, getting out near Shake Shake. At the airport, checking through was easy, but the plane was about 45 minutes late. The Zanzibar connection and the Dar connection were both OK. We had about a 6 hour lay over in Nairobi where we met up with the others. We both slept throughout the night’s journey to Heathrow, where we had another 7 hour lay over. We phoned some of our relatives and chatted with the others and the time went very quickly.

Pemba Island; Manta Reef Lodge just before departure.
Trip Date: 26-2-05
Species Seen: 2

Pemba White-eye

Zosterops vaughani

A small flock was in a tree just by the reception area.

Pemba Sunbird

Cinnyris pembae

There was a male feeding from the Bougainvillea just outside the reception area.

In Tanzania, I saw 424 species of birds, 12 of them were endemics. This was all thanks to Anthony and Gaitan, who were wonderful guide and driver.

We also saw many Mammals:-

F Red-tailed Monkey F Red-legged Sun Squirrel Leopard Vervet Monkey Waterbuck Black-backed Jackal Lion F Golden Jackal Spotted Hyena Blue Wildebeest Thomson's Gazelle Eland African Savanna Elephant African Buffalo Giraffe Impala Hartebeest Topi (Tsessebe) F Pemba Flying Fox Warthog F Yellow Baboon Impala Burchell's Zebra F Domestic Donkey F Blue Monkey F Zanzibar Red Colobus F Olive Baboon Grant's Gazelle Guenther's Dik-dik Hippopotamus F Bat-eared Fox

Cercopithecus ascanius Heliosciurus rufobrachium Panthera pardus Chlorocebus pygerythrus Kobus ellipsiprymnus Canis mesomelas Panthera leo Canis aureus Crocuta crocuta Connochaetes taurinus Gazella thomsonii Taurotragus oryx Loxodonta africana Syncerus caffer Giraffa camelopardalis Aepyceros melampus Alcelaphus buselaphus Damaliscus lunatus Pteropus voeltzkowi Phacochoerus africanus Papio cynocephalus Aepyceros melampus Equus burchellii Equus asinus Cercopithecus mitis Piliocolobus kirkii Papio anubis Gazella granti Madoqua guentheri Hippopotamus amphibius Otocyon megalotis

Two were seen.

Dwarf Mongoose Rock Hyrax F East African Collared Fruit Bat Brown Greater Galago

Helogale parvula Procavia capensis Myonycteris relicta Otolemur crassicaudatus

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UGANDA BIRDING MARCH 2003 TOUR GROUND OPERATED BY BIRDING & BEYOND SAFARIS

TRIP REPORT BY: MARGARET & KEITH RIDING

Uganda Trip Report - Download here